About me

Born on April 18, 1979, in Kathmandu, Nepal, Tashi Sherpa spent his early childhood in the capital before relocating to the remote Rolwaling Valley (photo below), situated at an elevation of approximately 3,715 meters. Raised in a family deeply connected to mountaineering, he was influenced by his grandfather, Phura Kipa Sherpa (photo below), who served as a Khumbu Icefall Sardar and was associated with the historic 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition under Sir Chris Bonington, one of the most significant early Everest-style expeditions of its era. His father, Phura Temba Sherpa, was also a mountain guide, further strengthening Tashi Sherpa’s early connection to high-altitude climbing traditions and expedition life. Due to limited access to education, Tashi left school at a young age and began working to support his family, marking the beginning of his journey into the mountains.

At the age of 14, Tashi began working as a cook staff and trekking Sherpa for trekking groups and expeditions. These early years provided him with practical experience in high-altitude environments and introduced him to the responsibilities of Sherpas in expedition teams. Over time, his exposure to climbing operations inspired him to pursue mountaineering more seriously.

In 1998, with the support of his uncle Dorjee Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa reached his first summit on Mera Peak (6,400m), marking the beginning of his formal mountaineering career. Later that same year, during the autumn season, he successfully summited Cho Oyu at 8,201 meters. These early successes established his confidence and capability in extreme altitude conditions.

Tashi’s ambition led him to attempt Mount Everest in 1999 and again in 2000, but both attempts were unsuccessful due to challenging weather conditions and limited forecasting technology at the time. Demonstrating persistence, he returned in 2001 and successfully reached the summit on May 22, achieving his first Everest summit after two failed attempts. This milestone became a defining moment in his career.

Following his Everest success, Tashi became a regular participant in major expeditions, typically joining two to three each year. Over time, he summited numerous peaks above 8000 meters as well as several 7000m and 6000m mountains. His experience grew steadily, leading to a total of over 40 expeditions and establishing him as a highly experienced high-altitude mountaineer.

In 2005, Tashi joined the Nepal-China Friendship Expedition, where the team completed the first ascent of Friendship Peak (6,590m), contributing to collaborative mountaineering efforts between the two countries. Later, in 2015, following the devastating earthquake in Nepal, he participated in a mission to restore confidence in Nepal’s safety for climbing. Alongside Nima Tenji Sherpa and Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, he successfully completed the first ascents of three new peaks in the Rolwaling region—Mt. Raungsiyar, Mt. Langdak, and Thakar-Go East—within just three days.

In 2012, while guiding an international expedition on Mount Manaslu, Tashi faced a major crisis when a deadly avalanche struck the mountain. Positioned at Camp 2, he quickly organized and led a rescue mission for climbers affected at higher camps. Over several hours, he and his team rescued 31 individuals and coordinated emergency helicopter evacuations for the injured, demonstrating exceptional leadership and commitment under life-threatening conditions.

The year 2016 marked a major milestone in Tashi Sherpa’s career. On May 21, 2016, he successfully summited Mount Everest for the tenth time, solidifying his place among the most experienced Everest climbers.
Shortly after, he joined a Nepali expedition to Denali. On June 22, 2016, he successfully summited Denali via the challenging West Rib Route as part of the first Nepali team to complete this route. Just a few days later, on June 25, he reached the summit again via the West Buttress route, achieving two ascents through different routes within the same expedition.

Today, Tashi Sherpa is recognized as one of Nepal’s accomplished high-altitude mountaineers. His journey reflects resilience, dedication, and a lifelong connection to the mountains, built on decades of experience, leadership in extreme conditions, and contributions to both exploration and rescue in the mountaineering community.